The best version of it does not announce itself. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point.

Ask ten people and you will get ten answers. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered.

Deliberate Wardrobe

Ask ten people and you will get ten answers. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point.

Et sapiente sit ratione ex nisi
Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.Kyra McCullough / Staff

Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point.

For years the answer seemed obvious. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.

For years the answer seemed obvious. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself.