The appeal is harder to explain than it looks. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered.

It started, as these things often do, with a single detail. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.

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For years the answer seemed obvious. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.

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The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place.Cleo Beahan / Staff

The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place.

The change happened slowly, then all at once. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.

It started, as these things often do, with a single detail. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.