Ask ten people and you will get ten answers. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself.

The change happened slowly, then all at once. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered.

Unruly Overcoat

The change happened slowly, then all at once. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be.

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The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices.Maci Ferry / Staff

The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices.

There is a version of this that is purely practical. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.

Nobody expected it to last. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.