Nobody expected it to last. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first.

For years the answer seemed obvious. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first.

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The appeal is harder to explain than it looks. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.

Id odio molestiae neque rerum saepe
What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself.Philip Hartmann IV / Staff

Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.

The best version of it does not announce itself. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point. The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices. The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.

The appeal is harder to explain than it looks. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.