For years the answer seemed obvious. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first.

Nobody expected it to last. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices.

Unruly Season

For years the answer seemed obvious. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered. The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place.

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The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.Brandon Reinger / Staff

Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.

The appeal is harder to explain than it looks. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.

Ask ten people and you will get ten answers. It is not subtle, and it is not trying to be. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses.