It started, as these things often do, with a single detail. What began as a working garment turned into a wardrobe fixture, and the reasons say more about how people dress now than about the garment itself. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered.

For years the answer seemed obvious. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed.

Unexpected Chronograph

It started, as these things often do, with a single detail. Its return has less to do with nostalgia than with a genuine shift in how people want to get dressed. It rewards restraint, which is exactly why it keeps being rediscovered. Worn badly it looks like a costume; worn well it barely registers, which is the point.

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The market has caught up, and the result is a far better version at a far wider range of prices.Mr. Nick Sanford / Staff

The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place.

The best version of it does not announce itself. Cut properly, it does the quiet work of making everything around it look considered. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses. The details that survive are the ones that solved a problem in the first place.

The appeal is harder to explain than it looks. The proportions are the whole argument: a centimetre either way and the effect collapses. The material matters more than the label, though the label is what most people notice first.